Good Food Bad Food Print E-mail
Written by David Espinosa   



With the onset of food television, food reality shows and food segments on every national am news program everyone can be a food expert, control their weight and be healthier.  Can watching these shows really enlighten us to what is “Good Food”?
What information on the internet is true? Which studies are accurate? How can we be more conscientious eaters? For some

good food is the Caesar Salad covered in creamy Caesar dressing at the local fast food joint or “all you can eat” soup and salad specials at the local sit down quick-service restaurant, oh and yes that comes with warm baked fresh “all you can eat “ garlic bread. Then there are others who may define good food as home cooked meals using only ‘Green Market/Farm fresh produce and organic meats or Pescatarian/Vegetarian diets.  Finally, there are those who believe that dinner at fine dining establishments like Spice Market, Aquavit or Tabla is the definition of good food. However, for most, “Good Food” is somewhere in between, a combination of eating out and preparing meals at home. The general public purchases food at the local supermarket or bodega trusting that the grocer is selling the freshest and safest food available. In addition, the same consumer who buys at the local green market or farmer’s market trusts that the grower is not using harmful chemicals or pesticides and has taken proper care in growing and harvesting the foods.

My own definition of good food has evolved during my life. I was raised in a small town in California by my Mexican grandmother and grandfather. Our meals consisted of fresh produce, meats, dairy and poultry. My mother, originally from Mito City, Japan passed away when I was 11 months old. While growing up my brothers and I made several trips to Japan where fresh fish was added as a dietary staple. As long as I can remember I wanted to be in the kitchen with my grandmother making tortillas, stewing beans, making stock or with my grandfather gathering chicken and duck eggs, butchering rabbits and poultry or picking fruit. It was a true California ranch existence.  It was this upbringing that steered me to seek an education in the food service industry. I studied Hotel and Restaurant Management beginning at Cornell University and ending in a degree from Niagara University. I have worked in nearly every position in food service, including stewarding, personal chef, Sous Chef to part owner and VP Operations of a successful catering company in New York City. Today I am a Culinary Arts teacher for New York City public schools.

My relationship with to food has grown and become multifaceted. From my perspective as a chef ‘Good Food’ begins with seasonal, organic and fresh foods. As a pedagogue ‘Good Food’ begins with nutrition and “safe food.” Lastly, from my perspective as Chef Instructor ‘Good Food’ begins with knowledge and choice, a combination of fresh, organic, seasonal, nutritious, safe, and most importantly knowing whom I am serving.

It was not long ago when the majority of Americans grew or raised the food they ate. Invention, the quest for convenience and urbanization has had a major effect on how and what we eat. As a relatively young country can we define any food or cuisine as Americana or American? If we research American Cuisine, we’ll receive information from Native North American and indigenous Central American people to Alice Waters’, “New American Cuisine/California Cuisine,” defined as “the use of locally grown, fresh and organic ingredients.”  Although the latter is more of a “movement” it is actually not very different in concept or theme from traditional native cooking. In my opinion American cuisine can be defined as “convenient.” There are American “regional” favorites or foods produced in specific regions, but in my opinion fall short of the title “American Cuisine.”
We could discuss regional cuisine, although with internet, television, and FedEx is anything truly regional in America? If I wanted wild turkey from Kentucky for my Thanksgiving dinner, or soft shell crabs from Maryland for summer brunch, or even fresh papaya from Hawaii to bring a tropical flair in winter, what are my limitations?

The last century in American food has brought into our home such classics as: New York Pizza, Girl Scout Cookies, Wonder Bread, Twinkies, Canned Soda, Frozen Dinners, Pop Tarts, and either the greatest or worst food inventions of ALL time changing the way Americans and the world eats, High Fructose Corn Syrup. During the same period we have seen the rise of the Fast Food and Quick Service restaurant industry.

So how well do you think you are eating? How much do you know about the food you are eating? Are processed foods good or bad? What is the difference between ‘natural and organic’? What does free range mean or wild versus sea farm raised? Answering these and other questions regarding our food and food production in America can drive most of us crazy, even those of us whom are professionals in the industry. However, there are important facts available to help consumers make clear decisions about the food they eat.

Processed Foods: worse than empty calories. “Processed foods” by definition are foods that have been altered from their natural state either for safety reasons, convenience and/or commercial use. The methods used to process foods are canning, freezing, dehydration, curing, and aseptic processing, causing problems due to the addition of chemicals, salt and depletion of nutrients. If it comes in a box, can or package it is processed and 90% of all foods purchased in the US is processed.

Nearly all food supplied by “fast food” and “quick service” restaurants are processed. On a daily basis 7% of the U.S. population eats at McDonalds, and 20 -25% consumes fast foods of some type.  More surprisingly and alarming is that approximately one third of U.S. children between the ages of 4 and 19 eat fast produced food on a daily basis. This rate is far greater in densely populated urban areas and poorer neighborhoods. On average the calories from fat by eating fast food is125. This translates to about 13 lbs annually and we wonder why the U.S. is the most obese nation in the world? In addition to the potential weight gain from fast food Americans risk weight gain from the overuse of high fructose corn syrup.  High fructose corn syrup (HFCS) is an additive in almost all sweetened processed foods. An additive that the corn industry claims has the same nutritional benefits of natural sugar. In addition, the corn lobby insists its widespread use is not motivated by it being 40% cheaper or that HFCS corn producers are subsidized by federal funds.
 
A study documented over a period of eight years at the University of Texas with a team lead by Sharon Fowler, MPH, show that people who drink one12 0z can of diet or HFCS sweetened drinks a day are 44% more likely to gain weight. It is believed that HFCS suppresses the feeling of fullness causing us to eat more. Replacing soft drinks with water or teas containing HFCS or artificial sweeteners will have the same effect. If it has to be sweet, natural sweeteners such as, Stevia or honey can be used. 
Dangers in Meat, Poultry and Fish.

If the fear of gaining weight doesn’t make you more conscious about the food you choose to eat let’s have a look at meat products. How dangerous is the meat we eat? Today it is nearly impossible to determine the individual cow or even the farm or stockyard that is the source of our processed meat or hamburgers. Four hundred carcasses are slaughtered and exanguinated each day by our largest meat producers. The animals are given antibiotic soy feed for fattening and kept in overcrowded conditions prior to slaughter. It is these same conditions designed for greater meat production that cause stress to the animal and produce meat with harmful additives. Additionally, conditions like these create an ideal environment for super microorganisms and processed meat with measurable fecal matter.

Poultry like beef is confined to small spaces and is given feed with antibiotics to promote growth and prevent diseases. Similarly, these conditions are ideal for stress, infected insects, which the birds consume, and birds eating the droppings of other birds. Consumer Report laboratories tested hundreds of processed birds from the top three poultry producers and 85% of birds tested positive for Campylobacher, Salmonella microbes or both. Whereas organic birds tested had no evidence of Salmonella and far fewer positive results for Campylobacher microbes.

To keep up with consumption rates fish are farm raised kept in small overcrowded environments and as a result, subject to parasitic infestation or disease. These same fish lose color in this environment and, have to be injected with coloring to give the fish a more natural hue to resemble the ‘wild’ varieties. Although fish and shellfish contain high quality protein, omega- 3 fatty acids and are low in saturated fats essential for a healthy and balanced diet, nearly all fish and shellfish contain traces of mercury.  A recent U. S. Geological Survey study found that all samples taken from US fresh water and coastal sources had some trace levels of mercury. For most people this is of little to no health concern when consumption is at or around 12 oz per week (the bigger the fish the higher the levels of mercury.)

Genetically Modified; will I grow scales?

Finally, there is a new trend in food that Americans ought to be conscious of.  The lack of data from long-term study prevents us from knowing the extent of physical, biological and environmental effects, as this science is relatively new. Genetically Engineered (GE) or Genetically Modified (GMO) food is food whose genes have been cut, altered or fused with another.  Currently in the U.S. there are no GE livestock available for sale in any supermarket. However, in Boston a company called ‘Aqua Bounty Technologies’ is hoping to gain approval for the sale of its ‘fast-growing’ salmon and other ‘hybrid’ fish varieties by 2011. At present GE guidelines being reviewed by the FDA do not require any labeling indicating that the product has been genetically altered, subject to the FDA review of GE livestock products being deemed as ‘safe.’  However, labeling would be required if the final product is changed, for instance using rodent genes to produce a ‘low cholesterol’ meat product would have to be labeled as GE not necessarily where the genes came from or how the original food was altered.

Knowledge is Power.

So what do we do, starve? How can we eat more healthy and conscientious? The alternative to processed foods is organic, fresh, natural and/or free range. When considering ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ the following rules apply: Organic food is produced without the use of most conventional pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, sewage sludge, bioengineering, or ionizing radiation. Certified organic does not, however, require the label to verify how an animal was raised. Therefore, also look for ‘Certified Humane,’ which at first seems to be an oxymoron but in reality refers to how an animal is handled from birth to slaughter or ‘Free Farmed, which basically means raised without confinement.’  Fresh means the product has not reached a temperature below 26°F/-3°C.   Food that is labeled ‘natural’ has a legal requirement. This food will not have any artificial ingredients, coloring ingredients or ‘chemical’ preservatives and in the case of meat, fish and poultry are minimally processed. However, animals that have been treated with artificial hormones can and are legally labeled ‘natural’ but cannot be labeled ‘organic.’ Some meats are injected with a saline solution with the claim of ‘natural flavor enhancers’ completely legal but totally false. They do not add flavor just liquid weight to an end product that is sold by the pound.  Free Range can be applied to meat, eggs or dairy farming. Free range means any livestock that is raised “unconfined.”  Eggs in the U.S. have no regulation for the labeling as ‘free range.’ Any supplier can use this label legally, therefore, look for eggs that are ‘cage free.’ These are eggs from chickens that are free roaming and are aid in the coop or “hut.”

Raw milk and raw milk cheeses are natural and organic. Raw milk is milk straight from cows that are fed only fresh, organic grass and is rapidly cooled to 36 – 38 degrees Fahrenheit and packaged and is an excellent source of probiotics. These cultures, needed for proper Gastrointestinal (GI) function, are destroyed during pasteurization.

Organic eggs are either cage free or free range. Brown eggs are not nutritionally different from white eggs, merely harvested from a different variety of chicken.

Low in fat and cholesterol are venison and furred game. These are free roaming or domesticated wild animals and categorized as game meats. The most common game meat is rabbit and a nearly 100% lean alternative to poultry.

Fresh can be your local supermarket or the farmer’s market. There are endless options in New York City and the five Buroughs. New York City has one of the world’s largest distributors of produce. The Bronx, Hunts Point Food Distribution Center’s annual revenue is estimated at over $1 billion. Fruits, vegetables and fresh fish are available all year round. The center also provides fresh and often times local goods for our markets, fishmongers and bodegas. The majority of fishmongers in Manhattan and the Buroughs purchase their fish at Hunts Point. Hint: whether buying fish in Chinatown, Jamaica, Queens, Cobble Hill, Brooklyn or your local fishmonger, get there early, choose a fish from the bottom of the pile, with bright red gills and sweet smell. Get to know the butcher at your local grocer. Most will take the prime or select cuts you have chosen and grind them for you. This ensures the processed meat is from a single carcass.  You can also search www.chowhound.com for local meat provisions in the New York City area or visit Oppenheimer on the Upper Westside for grass-fed organic meats. Finally, D’Artagnan Farms is an excellent choice for gourmet meats and wild and game meats (buffalo, venison, rabbit and squab) all butchered and shipped fresh,  for local meat provisions in the New York City area or visit Oppenheimer on the Upper Westside for grass-fed organic meats. Finally, D’Artagnan Farms is an excellent choice for gourmet meats and wild and game meats (buffalo, venison, rabbit and squab) all butchered and shipped fresh,  for local meat provisions in the New York City area or visit Oppenheimer on the Upper Westside for grass-fed organic meats. Finally, D’Artagnan Farms is an excellent choice for gourmet meats and wild and game meats (buffalo, venison, rabbit and squab) all butchered and shipped fresh.

In New York City a good source of local and seasonal foods is ‘Green Market’ vendors (www.cenyc.org).  Currently, there are 50 such markets in the five boroughs, many are all year round and this number is growing each year. After visiting the market and your local grocer then plan the menu. Outside of New York City search “green market” or “local farm fresh” for your state and city.

It is true that eating healthier and consciously costs more, and fresh and local should be cheaper but it isn’t. I can give you the information and provide alternatives for how to shop and what to eat, however, the choice is still yours. It is estimated that the build up of minerals, chemicals and additives consumed with food and stored in the colon weigh approximately 10 pounds.  
The information provided is merely informational and provides a small portal into the world of food, in the hope that you can make decisions to improve how you eat and what you eat. With the increased popularity of Food reality shows, TV chefs and information technologies, the state of American food/cuisine is no longer regional and increasingly more ethnic and fused. I stay firm in the belief that what is most important in choosing the foods we eat is a rich combination of fresh, local, seasonal and when possible a minimum of processed foods. Wean yourself from all fast food regardless of claims for “healthy” “fresh” and/or “natural.”  Finally, I implore you to practice one thing when preparing or planning meals. Start with what is available and seasonal. Shop first, then plan the menu. Eat Consciously!
 
 
 
References
 
Bacher, D. (2003). Wild salmon fisheries threatened by genetically engineered fish. The Fish Sniffer Online. Retrieved from:
http://www.fishsniffer.com/dbachere/061703genetic.html

CIA, (2006) The professional chef. Hoboken, NJ: John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

Ecofactory, (2009). Fish nationwide contaminated with mercury. Ecofactory.
Retrieved from: http://www.ecofactory.com/news/fish-nationwide-contaminated-mercury-082409

Clayton, S. (2009). Processed foods: a silent assassin?
Retrieved from: http://www.enfoods.com/news/Processed-foods-a-silent-assassin/

DeNoon, D. (2005). Diet soda drinkers gain weight. CBS News.
Retrieved from:  http://wap.cbsnews/site?sid=cbsnews&pid=sections.detail&storyId=70140z&index=1

Eng, M. (2009). Organic vs. natural a source of confusion in food labeling. The Chicago Tribune.
Retrieved from: http://www.chicagotribune.com/health/chi-natural-foods- 10 jul10,0,834771.story

Fagan, J. MD (1996). Genetically engineered foods: a serious health risk.
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Kanigel, R. (2005). The case against soda. MSN health and fitness.
Retrieved from:  http://health.msn.com/fitness/articlepage.aspx?cp-documentid=100166815

Labensky, S. & Labensky, S. (2006). Introduction to culinary arts. Saddle River, NJ: Pearson Prentice Hall Education

Largen, V. (2000). Guide to good food. Tinley Park, IL: Goodheart-Wilcox

Mendez, A. (2000). Composition for extending shelf life for fresh fruits and 
vegetables without the use of refrigeration. Patent Storm, US.
Retrieved from:  http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6123968/claims.html

PBS Frontline (2002). Modern meat.
Retrieved from: http://www.pbs.org/rh/wgbh/pages/frontline/shows/meat/safe/know.html
 
Russell, N. (2008). What food labels really mean. USA Weekend.com.
Retrieved from: http://www.usaweekend.com/08_issues/081005/081005food-label language.html

Thomson Rueters, (2009). Critical reviews in food science and nutrition. Journal Citation Reports. Taylor & Frances, Philadelphia, PA. Volume 50.
Retrieved from: http://www.tandf.co.uk/journals/titles/F10408398.asp
 
Other Sources 
http://www.aquabounty.com/technology/technology-296.aspx
http://www.sfphes.org/water/FactSheets/fish_facts.pdf
http://scifun.chem.wisc.edu/chemweek/mercury/mercury.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-fructose_corn_syrup
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genetically_modified_organism
Thank you to Mr. Brian Dorph for editing this piece for me.